Caloric Refrigerator Parts
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Popular Caloric Refrigerator Parts
Your Price
$11.73
In Stock
Caloric Refrigerator Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect Number PS884734
Manufacturer Part Number 8009
This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are most often used to light the inside of refrigerators and ranges. It features a standard socket base, which means you simply unscrew the burnt-out bulb and screw in the replacement. Depending on the appliance you may require a screwdriver or nut driver to access the light bulb. We recommend you wear work gloves while handling this replacement part. It is constructed of glass and metal and is sold individually. Depending on the appliance and location of the bulb within it, you may want to consider disconnecting power and using a flashlight for easier access to unscrewing and re-screwing in your bulb during this repair.
Installation Instructions
judie from mays landing, NJ
interior drawers were off their rollers
pulled the washer out and replaces the top roller system on both sides and the replaced the weels and brackets on the bottom drwaer. however i had trouble putting the dish washer back correctly and had to call a repairman to adjust the dishwasher and alighn it to open and close properly. but i did do good inside. i feel it was easy and a success. thank you for having the supplies for us to attempt to repair it on our own.
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Your Price
$38.48
In Stock
Caloric Refrigerator Door Switch
PartSelect Number PS12728638
Manufacturer Part Number W11384469
Door switch turns the light off when you close the door.
Fixes these symptoms
- Light not working
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Clint from Rayville, MO
Lights inside refrigerator not working
I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.
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Your Price
$139.15
In Stock
Caloric Refrigerator Replacement Ice Maker
Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2121513
Manufacturer Part Number D7824706Q
This ice maker (Ice Maker Assembly, Refrigerator Ice Maker) produces ice cubes that are ejected into the storage bucket. It is located in the freezer section of your appliance, mounted on the freezer wall. The ice maker can break from normal wear and accidental damage. If this happens, your refrigerator may no longer make ice cubes, or may not make enough cubes, and the part should be replaced. This model measures approximately 11 inches long and 5 inches wide. It’s constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in black/white/silver. This assembly includes the ice mold and the control device.
Fixes these symptoms
- Clicking sound
- Doesn’t stop running
- Ice maker dispenses too little ice
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Bernie from Diamond Bar, CA
Icemaker producing few or no cubes and often leaving "kling-ons" on ice tray
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release.Unplug appliance.
Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge.
Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker.
Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment.
Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment.
Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall.
Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer.
Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit.
Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable.
A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable.
Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in.
It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient.
Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue. Read more...
Your Price
$79.16
In Stock
Caloric Refrigerator Capacitor
PartSelect Number PS11757023
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor in your appliance to easily cycle on and off. This capacitor mounts directly onto the compressor starting relay. If the capacitor is faulty the compressor may get unusually hot and draw excessive amperage. It the compressor overheats, it may fail to run until it cools down again. The compressor may also get noisy from overheating. If this part is totally electrically open, it is defective (often due to overheating) and needs to be replaced. The part measures 1 inch by 1-1/2 inches, and is constructed of plastic with two metal wire terminals. This item includes 1 capacitor, sold individually. This part comes in black.
Fixes these symptoms
- Clicking sound
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer section too warm
- See more...
Installation Instructions
garth from forest lake, MN
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Your Price
$17.11
In Stock
Caloric Refrigerator Light Bulb - 120V 25W
PartSelect Number PS11747806
Manufacturer Part Number WPA3073101
This light bulb is a 120 volt, 25 watt incandescent appliance light bulb with a small base screw-in that fits in a variety of appliances such as microwaves, refrigerators, freezers, cooktops, or stoves. Its purpose is to light up the appliance when the door is open. This is a genuine OEM part. You may need to replace the light bulb if the existing bulb is burnt out or broken. This light bulb is sold individually and is a common wear part, it is recommended to order a spare.
Installation Instructions
Arau from Haverhill, MA
The door was crocked and wouldn't shut properly
Everything was easy. I read one of your other reviews and it gave me the confidence to try it myself. First i toke off the cap at the top of the door then the three screws. I lifted the door off so i could be sure the cam was my only problem then put the door back on. That took 5 mins. Then I got on the computer and ordered the parts i needed. Two days later the parts arrived and and i took the door off again. Then put the new cam on, applied a litle vasiline, put the door back on and forgot that i ever had a problem. Thanks for the help. Doug Arau
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Your Price
$34.61
In Stock
Caloric Refrigerator Defrost Timer
PartSelect Number PS11723171
Manufacturer Part Number W10822278
The Defrost Timer (Defrost control) acts like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or frost to maintain proper airflow. If this part is not working, it can lead to temperature increases in your refrigerator. If the compressor circuit fails, no cooling will take place; if the defrost circuit isn't activated, ice will quickly build up on the evaporator coils and reduce airflow and efficiency. If the timer doesn't advance or if the contacts have no continuity, the timer will need to be replaced. This part is located inside of the control housing on most models, and is approximately 3 inches long and 2.5 inches wide. This part is constructed of plastic and metal, and comes in white. It features 1 defrost timer, along with all necessary mounting hardware and installation instructions
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer section too warm
- Freezer too cold
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal opens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
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Your Price
$63.18
In Stock
Caloric Refrigerator Condenser Fan Motor Kit
Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new Read more...
PartSelect Number PS395284
Manufacturer Part Number 833697
This condenser fan motor kit is designed for use with refrigerators. This fan draws air through the condenser coils and over the compressor. It does this with the goal of cooling the warm refrigerant before it enters the evaporator. When your fan or fan motor is not working your refrigerator will not cool properly. This is a 2-Watt, 115 Volt motor that rotates the fan in a counter clockwise direction. This kit includes the hardware needed for installation, and a set of instructions. Before you begin any repair work make sure to unplug your appliance.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer section too warm
- Fridge and Freezer are too warm
- Fridge runs too long
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Tom from Franklin, WI
Sometimes the condenser fan would start causing the refrigerator to overheat.
Unplug the appliance.Removed the screws holding the back panel.
Removed the fan blade.
removed 3 screws holding the condenser fan.
Remove the 3 metal brackets attached to the fan.
(First note which studs the brackets are attached to. Attach the 3 metal brackets to the new fan. (New screws were supplied)
Cut and strip the wire about two inches from the fan.
Cut and strip the new wire. I cut the new wire in half (about 6 inches.) Connect the two wires, twist and used 2 wire nuts. Tie wrap the wire to the wire harness. Mount the new fan (three screws)
Screw the back panel back on.
Mount the new Read more...
Your Price
$30.34
In Stock
Caloric Refrigerator Door Light Switch
PartSelect Number PS11738900
Manufacturer Part Number WP2149705
The purpose of the light switch in your refrigerator is to automatically turn on the light when the door is opened. If the light does not come on automatically when you open the door, the contacts inside the light switch may be burned out, meaning it is time to replace the switch. This package contains both the new light switch and a small plastic spacer. To complete this repair, you will need to remove the control panel section of your refrigerator. The only tools you will require for this repair are a 1/4-inch nut driver and maybe a small flat blade screwdriver. Be sure to disconnect the power source from the refrigerator before completing this repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Light not working
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Randy from Hays, KS
Broken light switch
Took all the screws out of the plastic shroud that encloses the switch .There only four that I needed to remove, were the two in front where the switches that go,they go in horizontally and two in the back with large washers on them that hold the back to the top of the box that go in vertically.The switch was a snap ( make that two snaps ) the wiring is almost self explanatory. then it gos back to the way you took it off. OH! and don't forget to turn the light bulb all the way back in to the socket , so the light will work after you take the time to install it yourself.I had the water supply line from under the box to the water dispenser in the door and the total bill on that was one hundred thirty seven and a hand full of change.Don't be afraid to do it yourself the savings is enough on one one item to make several months payments on a new one Randy the "Handy Man'
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Your Price
$42.49
In Stock
Caloric Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect Number PS11742474
Manufacturer Part Number WP4387503
This is a bimetal defrost thermostat for your refrigerator. It stops the fridge from overheating during the defrost cycle by protecting the evaporator. This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost process, and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted. The most common reasons for needing to replace this part are if your unit is leaking, has inconsistent temperatures (too hot or too cold), you are seeing buildup of ice, or your appliance is running too long.
Fixes these symptoms
- Freezer not defrosting
- Freezer section too warm
- Freezer too cold
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Lawrence from Grahamsville, NY
The frost free feature of the freezer was freezing over with ice and cooling coils were being insulated with thickening frost which caused the cooling air to rise in temperature from -5 degrees to 20 degrees.
I troubleshot the problem by reading the electrical schematic and concluding the heating elements (defrost cables) were either defective or the bi-metal temp sensor was open. When closed the temp sensor completes the circuit for the current to flow through the heaters to defrost the cooling coils every 8 hours and then when the bimetal opens at 55 degrees the circuit is open and the coils are cooled because the refridgeration motor is in run mode. A timer between the motor and heater elements also was defective. The timer controls the cooling period and the defrost period. I ohmed out each part according to the spec sheet of normal resistance of parts and thus the bimetal and timer were defective. I gather a surge of some duration and amplitude affected these parts because a storm 24 hours prior to refridgerator problem had passsed through the area and the AC electrical power had oscillated several times during that event. I used hand tools to do the repair. If you are not mechanically inclined a step by step proceedure would be moot. It is a matter of disassembly and assembly paying close attention to fragile parts.
Read more...
Your Price
$11.10
In Stock
Caloric Refrigerator Door Closure Cam Kit
(Not after as I did. The second time you do any of these repairs go SO much better :o)
After putting the door back on, adjust the tension of the screws holding the door in place if needed to align the door on the cams so that it shuts completely. Failure to do this will require taking the top off the door again. (see comment above on "... second time...")
If all is properly aligned, the door should swing completely shut.
Even with the mistakes that required removing the door to lubricate the cams, and removing it AGAIN to readjust the screws on the top to properly align the door on the cams, this was a twenty minute job. My wife and I were still speaking to one another at the end of it- a sure sign of an easy repair. Read more...
PartSelect Number PS2168612
Manufacturer Part Number R0181181
This door closing cam kit is intended for use on the bottom of your refrigerator and freezer door hinges. The cam helps close the doors and to lifts them slightly when opened. If your door will not open or close, or will not stay closed, there could be an issue with the door close cam. Other common symptoms associated with the door close cam are: the door is sweating, the fridge is too warm, or a clicking sound can be heard coming from the door. If your refrigerator has an ice and water dispenser, you will need to disconnect the power and water to the unit before you begin the repair.
Fixes these symptoms
- Clicking sound
- Door Sweating
- Door won’t open or close
- See more...
Installation Instructions
Russ from Asheville, NC
Door would not close
After emptying the refrig. door, I unscrewed the plate on the top of the refrigerator that covered the door bolts. Then off with the three bolts. I removed the door by lifting it up a few inches. The two parts of the door cam were easily removed and replaced with the new part. BEFORE REPLACING the door spread vasoline on both cam parts. (Not after as I did. The second time you do any of these repairs go SO much better :o)
After putting the door back on, adjust the tension of the screws holding the door in place if needed to align the door on the cams so that it shuts completely. Failure to do this will require taking the top off the door again. (see comment above on "... second time...")
If all is properly aligned, the door should swing completely shut.
Even with the mistakes that required removing the door to lubricate the cams, and removing it AGAIN to readjust the screws on the top to properly align the door on the cams, this was a twenty minute job. My wife and I were still speaking to one another at the end of it- a sure sign of an easy repair. Read more...
Caloric Refrigerator Appliance Types
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Popular Caloric Refrigerator Models
Below are the most popular Caloric Refrigerator models we have. Enter your model number in the search box to find your model.
- GFS207 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GTA18AL TOP MOUNT REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER
- GTA18AL TOP MOUNT REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER
- GTG18AL TOP MOUNT REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER
- GTW18AL TOP MOUNT REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER
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- GFS185 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GFS185 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
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- GFS185 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GFS185 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GFS187/MN02 Electric
- GFD200 Electric
- KGF-4 Electric
- GFD240-1L2 Side-by-side, Electric
- GFS2271W10 Electric
- GFS2271L10 Electric
- GFS165/MN10 Top Freezer
- GFS187 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
- GFS227 ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS
